Tri-State of Branford :: Frequently Asked Questions

Who should I buy windows from?
A consumer should select a window company who sells energy efficient products, has a reputation for service and stability, and provides a warranty on the unit. We recommend that you buy from a company with a commitment to participating in the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) certification and labeling process and in the ENERGY STAR® Windows program.

Many companies will also participate in the American Architectural Manufacturers Association (AAMA) and will have a permanent label on the product indicating their participation. Membership in all of these organizations is an indication that you are dealing with a manufacturer who cares about the quality of their product and the product's energy efficiency.

Why are my windows drafty and will new windows stop the draft?
Drafty windows and air infiltration could have several causes. Improper installation is often the culprit but not always. If the windows were improperly installed, the defects can normally be corrected without removing or replacing the window.

Proper caulking and flashing should prevent perimeter air leakage. However, if the installation twists or racks the window frame causing the sash weatherstrip not to be able to seal the sash to the frame, removal of the window to correct the problem may be necessary. You can determine whether the air is coming in at the joint between the frame and the house or the joint between the sash and the frame. Hold a lighted candle or lighter in front of each joint when the wind is blowing and slowly move it along the joint. If the flame flickers strongly or goes out, the joint is probably leaking.

If the leak is between the frame and the sash and the window has been installed square, plumb, level and is not twisted or racked, the problem may be construction of the window or window design. If your windows are not efficient in your climate and particularly if it does not have insulated glazing, the air may not be leakage but simply cold room air flowing down the surface of the window.

As the window surface becomes colder, it cools the room air next to it. This cooled room air is then heavier than the warmer room air further into the room. Because the cooled room air is heavier it sinks toward the floor and is replaced by warmer room air, which is then cooled. This process can result in noticeable air flow but it is not air leakage from the outside. Replacement of the window by an energy efficient window is the solution here.

Will new windows eliminate condensation?
Condensation is a direct result of interior humidity and the difference between indoor and outside air temperature. If you keep the humidity in your house low, then the likelihood of experiencing condensation is also low. However, the efficiency of your window will also impact the temperature and humidity level at which condensation occurs. Energy efficient windows will help reduce condensation.

Here's why: high performance windows with low U-factors result in inside glass surface temperatures much closer to the room air temperature. Windows with warm edge technologies and non-metal frames are also less likely to have condensation on the frame or at the edge of the glass.

Insulated "superwindows" with three or more layers will virtually eliminate condensation on the interior surface of the glass -- even under extreme cold weather conditions. Note that in certain conditions (humid mornings after a clear night sky), some superwindows may have dew on their outside surface. These windows are such good insulators, the dew is condensing there just like it does on an insulated wall.

What should I look for when selecting a product?
Choose a company with a proven track record and good references. Make sure you are getting a high quality product and certified installers.

What's the best way to evaluate a window's energy performance?
The easiest way to compare energy performance of different windows and doors is to read the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC) label. It provides valuable efficiency information about the product including the u-value, solar heat gain and visible light transmittance values. Also check to see if the product is ENERGY STAR® approved.

*Cleaning Materials are listed in alphabetical Order. Tri State of Branford does not endorse proprietary products or processes and makes no warranties for the products referenced herein. References to proprietary names is for illustrative purposes only, and is not intended to imply that there are not equally effective alternatives. All cleaners used must be thoroughly rinsed off and dried after use or discoloration of vinyl frames could occur.

How do I clean my window frames?
Keeping your windows and doors clean means more than just the glass. Here are some helpful tips for cleaning your window and door frames effectively without damaging them. Vacuum dirt from sill and track areas before washing.

How do I care for my window glass?
Glass care today is more important than ever. Insulating, low-e or heat reflective glass requires proper maintenance to ensure their complete effectiveness.

What is condensation and mold?
Window condensation can be a natural occurrence. It can be a warning that excessive moisture is present and may cause structural deterioration and the possibility of mold growth.

Condensation on the inside of a window is a result of a higher air moisture content contacting lower temperatures on the glass. The higher the interior humidity and the lower the outside window temperature, the more condensation can occur.

Excessive interior humidity can lead to structural damage and health concerns if high moisture levels are sustained inside wall cavities. Wood rot, mold and mildew can result. To prevent these problems:

How long will a window last?
Most of today's windows are made from a frame material and an insulating glass "sandwich"-each component subject to wear, weathering, and potential failure. Weatherstripping in the frame and moving parts can wear out with use. An insulating glass panel may suffer a broken seal after years of expansion and contraction with temperature changes-creating a "fogged" look as moisture accumulates between the glass panels. According to the National Institute of Standards and Technology (NIST), some windows can last up to 50 years. Some of the factors that go into the determination include:

What is ENERGY STAR®?
ENERGY STAR is an independent U.S. government program establishing a standard set of guidelines to recognize the energy efficiency of various products. ENERGY STAR guidelines are used in conjunction with a variety of building materials, including windows and patio doors. Over the past 10 years, ENERGY STAR guidelines have helped double the efficiency of windows they endorse.

What is Low-Emmisivity (Low-E) glass?
Low-e glass is manufactured by depositing a microscopically thin, transparent metal or metallic oxide layer on the glass. Low-e coatings reduce radiant heat loss, and can reduce the passage of UV rays. Use of heat-resistant (or absorbing) glass began in the 1950s, as did the use of reflective (or mirror) glass.

What is the National Fenestration Rating Council (NFRC)?
The NFRC is an independent, third-party certification organization with industry-accepted standards for evaluating and certifying energy performance. The NFRC Certificate contains U-factor, SHGC (Solar Heat Gain Coefficient) and VT (Visible Transmittance) values. These values form the basis for the ENERGY STAR® Door and Window Program.

What is R-Value?
Refers to a window's resistance to thermal transfer or heat flow. The higher the value, the better the insulation.

Window Condensation

Windows serve as visible areas for moisture to condense, warning you that there is too much moisture inside your home. Windows do not cause condensation.

Of course windows don't manufacture water. If you were out in the desert, you would want a canteen with you, not a window. But people seem to believe that windows do manufacture water. They call up window contractors and say, "My windows are all wet, and it must be the fault of the windows." Well, not quite... Water on windows is condensation, and it can be a problem. However, it's not a window problem, and the solution does not come from the windows.

What is condensation?
Condensation is the result of high humidity that produces a "fog" once it hits a colder surface. The humidity is caused by excess water vapor in the home. This is commonly seen in a foggy mirror after a hot shower. Condensation usually occurs first on windows because glass surfaces have the lowest temperature of any of the interior surfaces in the home.

What causes high humidity?
Humidity comes from excess water vapor in the air. All homes have a certain level of moisture due to household activities. Activities such as cooking, laundry and dish washing can add up to five pounds of water vapor into the air daily! Other moisture-producing agents include plants, heating systems and humidifiers.

Seasonal changes, quick changes in temperature, reconstruction and remodeling can also add excess humidity temporarily into the air. During construction, large quantities of water are displaced into the air from building materials such as concrete, plaster, taping, etc. After one season of heating it will commonly dry out and your condensation problems will disappear.

Why wasn't it always there?
Old drafty windows allow moisture to escape through inefficient seals and cracks. Today's technology produces more energy efficient, "tighter" homes. This is great for keeping your home more comfortable, quieter, and cleaner, BUT by sealing your home you are also keeping moisture in. In today's homes it is very easy to build up extremely high levels of humidity.

Does condensation depend on my window type?
Sometimes. Recessed windows like bow and bay windows usually experience more condensation than other window styles. This is because air circulated around those window types is usually more restricted, and since they hang away from the insulated house wall, bays and bows could be a few degrees cooler in temperature. Placing a common electric fan near the window to produce air circulation may also be helpful.

Roofing

This document was created to answer frequently asked questions about Tri State roofing. Below, you'll find answers to questions concerning warranties, types of shingles and cost.

What kind of styles do you offer?
Tri State offers a wide variety of colors and styles to choose from.

What type of warranty do you offer on your Roofing?
Depending on the type of shingles you purchase, Tri State roofing warranty can last for 30 years.

How can I get samples of your products?
Our sales representatives can come out to your home and help you determine what style of roofing would be best for your home. They can provide samples of our products.

What do I need to do to prepare for the installation of my new roof?
Remove all loose items from walls and shelves. The constant hammering may cause enough vibration to shake these items down. Make sure to clear your driveway and items directly surrounding your home. Also, please see that electrical power is provided to the outside of your home. If exterior plugs are not available, please run an extension cord through a window or door.

How will new shingles look on my roof?
Choosing Tri State roofing is one of the best ways to improve the visual appeal and market value of your home. Their rich, dimensional appearance makes a statement that few other roofing materials can.

What is the best roof?
Wouldn't it be simple if there was one answer to all roofing problems? Unfortunately there is no magic pill in the roofing market that solves all roofing problems. What the market does offer is a wide selection of good products, each having attributes and faults. The key to selecting the proper roof system is identifying the specific roof design parameters of your building, and how each roof system meets those parameters. A simple example would be: If a building has very heavy foot and wheel traffic on the roof, a 45 mil single ply membrane probably would not be advisable, due to its limited puncture resistance.

Why does my roof leak?
Well a cynic might answer that there are two kinds of roofs, those that leak and those that will leak. Roofs leak from a break in the waterproofing layer, sometimes caused by mechanical damage (ie, someone dropping an HVAC access panel on the roof), sometimes from an opening in the sealant, such as pitch pans and caulking, and sometimes from deterioration or defects in the roofing material. The key roof management task is leak avoidance. Find and correct defects before they leak.

How long should a roof last?
Like any building component, roofs degrade at different rates depending on a large number of factors: the quality of original construction, the level of abuse, the level of maintenance, appropriateness of design, etc. So how long should a roof last? We have seen poorly designed and installed roofs go as few as six or seven years before they failed, and we have seen old coal tar built up roofs that were over 60 years old. Most building owners, roofing contractors and designers feel 20 years is an acceptable service life.

Can I cover over my existing roof?
Installing a roof over the top of an existing roof is generally acceptable under these guidelines: 1) A building cannot have more than two roofs; 2) No wet insulation can be left in place; 3) The roof structure must be able to handle the additional roof load; 4) The new roof must be attached to the roof deck to meet wind loads (it is not generally acceptable to adhere the new roof to the old roof).

When is the best time to put on a new roof?.

"How do I know when my roof has failed?" Different roof types fail at differing rates and with different failure modes. Without going into a long dissertation, the several general failure clues are:

Does the roof leak in numerous locations?
Do leaks continue, despite repeated repair attempts?
Do repairs seem to make leaks worse, or do new leaks develop after repairs?
How tolerant is the occupancy to leaks? Low leak tolerance generally means the "failure" decision is reached earlier. It is generally better to reroof at the appropriate juncture, rather than pouring money and time into ill advised repairs, but there are exceptions.

How much does a new roof cost?
Before we can tell you how much your job will cost, we will need to know what it involves. We understand your concerns about budget and keeping costs under control. We have the same concerns ourselves. Therefore, the best way to estimate a cost is to have a Tri State sales representative come to your home and take a look at your roof.

What is an architectural or dimensional shingle?
Unlike standard 3-tab, or strip shingles, which are single layer in design, a growing number of shingles are multi-layered or laminated.

What is algae (or fungus) found on roofs?
In some moist areas, algae can grow on shingles. Although the algae has no proven effect on shingle life, it does stain or discolor the shingle. Commonly called fungus, this algae staining can be unattractive. The algae-containing stains can be dramatically reduced by the use of special copper granules.

What are ice dams?
The typical ice dam is a buildup of ice that forms near the eaves or gutters as the result of interior heat escaping into the attic and through the roof decking. The heat melts the snow and ice on the upper areas of the roof resulting in meltwater. This melted water runs to cold, lower areas or eaves and depending on the conditions, can refreeze.

Vinyl Siding

This document was created to answer frequently asked questions about Tri State vinyl siding. Below, you'll find answers to questions concerning types of siding, installation and guarantees.

Do I ever have to paint my siding again?
No. Our siding is virtually maintenance free.

Does it come with matching trim?
We offer the widest variety of trim pieces in the industry. Everything from function utility trims to substantial wide trims resembling dimensional lumber, fluted cornerposts and decorative crown molding for window headers.

Does your siding have seams?
Our siding is generally available in 6' to 12' lengths, so it needs to be overlapped at the ends to cover an entire wall. Tri State siding is designed to provide a virtually seamless appearance. A good siding installer will lap you siding away from traffic to further minimize the laps.

How much does it cost to side a home?
Because we offer siding at a number of price points to fit any need and any budget, and because every home and siding job is unique, there is no way to answer this question. The best thing to do is invite a sales representative into your home so he can measure it accurately and discuss other needs you may have.

Is there a brand of paint that matches Tri State available siding colors?
With today's paint technology, the best way to match paint is to take a sample or chip of your siding to your local paint store. Most stores have electronic color matching capabilities.

Are there other materials that are better than vinyl?
Not when it comes to siding. Vinyl siding's outstanding features and benefits have made it the most popular siding material in America today. Because vinyl is the preferred siding for more and more homeowners, it retains most of its installed cost.

My home is partially brick and partially wood siding. Can I still use vinyl siding?
Yes. Vinyl siding is extremely versatile and can be used with just about any exterior building material-brick, cinder block, even natural logs and field stones.

Is one season better than another to have my new siding installed?
Not really. You can have your vinyl siding installed in any season, as your schedule and budget allow. Regardless of when you have your new siding installed, you'll enjoy the immediate benefits of improved appearance, as well as the long-term benefits of durability and easy maintenance

Gutters and Gutter Guards

This document was created to answer frequently asked questions about Tri State gutters and gutter guards. Below, you'll find answers to questions concerning ice dams, gutter grate, leaf build up, etc.

What causes ice dams on my gutters?
An ice dam is a build up of ice and water that works its way under shingles. When snow/ice from the peak melts (caused by warm spots in the attic or the sun), water slowly runs down the roof. When the water hits a cold spot on the roof (usually at the eaves), the water refreezes. As more melting water hits the cold spot, it begins to "stack up" and eventually works its way underneath shingles and sheathing.

Ice Dams

If your home does not have proper and effective attic insulation, heat can escape from the living space during the cold winter months. Heat is transferred from the living space and also generated from recessed light fixtures, air ducts, furnaces and other appliances and equipment located in the attic. This heat raises the roof temperature above the freezing point, causing the snow and ice on the roof to melt and flow downward.

This area is often just inside the perimeter of the outside walls. Once the melted snow, or water, meets back up with the colder part of the roof (overhang) that hangs over and outside of the interior walls (just above the soffit vent area), it begins to freeze again, expand and back up. This dam that forms is where this effect gets its name from; ice dam.

Have you ever noticed one house that is completely covered with snow on the roof? Then you see a house with no snow, or with areas that have completely melted away. Contrary to one’s belief, the house with all the snow on its roof, typically resembles the better insulated one. You may also notice huge, long icicles hanging down off the roof of one house, but not on another. These are all signs of an inadequately insulated roof and/or attic space.

What kind of havoc do ice dams wreak?
Roofs leak on attic insulation. In the short term, wet insulation doesn't work well. Over the long term, water-soaked insulation remains compressed, so that even after it dries, the R-value is not as high. The lower the R-values, the more heat lost. This sets up a vicious cycle: heat loss-ice dams-roof leaks-insulation damage-more heat loss!

Water often leaks down inside the wall, where it wets wall insulation and causes it to sag, leaving uninsulated voids at the top of the wall. Again, energy dollars disappear, but more importantly, moisture gets trapped in the wall cavity between the exterior plywood sheathing and the interior vapor barrier. Soon you can smell the result. In time, the structural framing members may decay. Metal fasteners may corrode. Mold and mildew may form on the surface of the wall. Exterior and interior paint blisters and peels. As a result, people with allergies suffer.

Peeling paint deserves special attention here because it may be hard to recognize what's causing it. Wall paint doesn't usually blister or peel while the ice dams are visible. Paint peels long after the ice--and the roof leak itself--have disappeared. Water from the leak infiltrates wall cavities. It dampens building materials and raises the relative humidity inside the wall. The moisture within the wall cavity tries to escape (as either liquid or vapor) and wets the interior and exterior walls. As a result, the walls shed their skin of paint.

How do I solve the problem?
The way to stop ice dams from forming is to keep the entire roof cold. In most homes this means blocking all air leaks leading to the attic from the living space below, increasing the thickness of insulation on the attic floor, and installing a continuous soffit and ridge vent system. Be sure that the air and insulation barrier you create is continuous.

Don't waste time or money placing electric heat tape on the shingles above the edge of the roof. Electrically heated cable rarely, if ever, solves the problem. It takes a lot of electricity to prevent ice formation; and the heating must be done before it gets cold enough for ice dams to form, not afterwards. Over time, heat tape makes shingles brittle. It's expensive to install, too, and water can leak through the cable fasteners. And often the cables create ice dams just above them.
The worst of all solutions is shoveling snow and chipping ice from the edge of the roof. People attack mounds of snow and roof ice with hammers, shovels, ice picks, homemade snow rakes, crowbars, and chain saws! The theory is obvious. No snow or ice, no leaking water. Unfortunately, this method threatens life, limb, and roof.
Information taken from www.energystar.com

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Replacement Windows

Window Condensation

Roofing

Vinyl Siding

Gutters and Gutter Guards

Ice Dams